Day 20: Fri Feb 24
Day 20: Fri Feb 24

Day 20: Fri Feb 24

I heard Babis Tsertos on the radio a million times, so I knew I would enjoy hearing him play live. Hands down, this was my favorite show during my time in Athens, and for a number of reasons. Via Golden Athens Nights (HaZahov), I learned Babis would be playing at Diadromes. The place is old school, no website, no need. He performed with an old-style rembetiko band. Denia Kourousi, a female vocalist supporting the show, was outstanding. Voice of an angel!

And shall we talk about the food? I had been cooking and not eating out much on this trip. Don’t get me wrong: If I would walk by a pleasant restaurant that felt right, I’d eat out. My neighborhood (Psirri) has become crowded with plant-based ice cream, Asian fast food, Arabic fast food — I didn’t see that much Greek food — until Diadromes. I ordered a simple bifteki meal, tzadziki, a glass of red wine. I don’t know what they did in that kitchen, but the beef melted in my mouth. It was a total sensual experience. Even with no music, I’d recommend eating there.

Finally, the recurring theme of my love story with Athens, is the people. I connected with people in a way that was uplifting, wholesome, positive. And anyone who knows me will know that I was not the one who reached out (too shy for that). I am grateful to a culture that prioritizes kindness, involvement, honor, values, fun.

I returned to Diadromes a week later to enjoy more of the same. This time, however, things were different: I am now a repeat customer, so the door guy didn’t try to seat me in Tibet, as he did during my previous visit. The waitress recognized me and greeted me. I was ready for this night to be even better than the previous. It was different. Apparently, there’s a tradition in Greece that high school seniors do a class trip to Athens with their teachers and go out on the town. I was surrounded by sweet, young faces. They took over the place, hooting, hollering, whistling, and supporting one another in dance. You had to see it: Each time their teacher moved a muscle, they would all bust out in applause and join him on the dance floor. It was a great scene, but I left when I realized I would not be dancing there that evening.